Kamairicha Zairai (釜炒り茶・在来), Uenohara Seichaen
Zairai (在来) means ‘native species’ and is used to describe seed-grown tea trees with an unknown origin. Often the fields with Zairai are older (over 50 or 60 years old) as tea farmers in Japan in general now only plant cultivated genetically identical tea varieties from cuttings (cultivars).
Unlike fields with one specific cultivar, every bush in the Zairai field can have its own character which results in a natural blend that can give more diversity in flavours.
We find that the character of this gentle pan-fired tea is complex yet a little elusive, differing with each brew and with different brewing parameters.
On the nose, the leaves yield a vegetal character immediately reminiscent of artichoke hearts. With a softer brew sweet notes of apricot jam on buttered pancakes, cinnamon butter biscuits as well as a shy mineral note of petrichor comes out.
For taste, we get a broad palette of vegetables, cream, nuts, and spices. Artichoke hearts, almond milk, roasted cashews, blanched garden peas, sweet corn, and a light hint of candied lemon peel.
Some pan-fired teas can have a strong nutty character, but we find that Uenohara’s teas are, like his own character, very gentle.
We prefer a slightly cooler brewing temperature between 70-80ºC as it brings out the sweeter and creamier notes, but the tea can handle hot brews very well.
Brewing suggestion:
5 gr / 150 ml / 70ºC / 1 min
The Kamairicha Zairai also makes a great zesty coldbrew, with vegetal notes, and even some floral and cinnamon hints.
The tea is cultivated by Uenohara Kouji at approximately 350 meters, along the upper slopes of Mt Niradake in Saza, Nagasaki.
Farmer Uenohara is one of only 3 farmers in the whole Saza tea region, and is so far the only farmer in Nagasaki Prefecture we have found who is still producing kamairicha (pan-fired green tea). He still uses kamairicha processing machines from the 1970s and we are truly excited to share his unique teas with you.
Uenohara farms in an organic way (uncertified). In Japanese he describes his cultivation style as ‘Shizensaibai’ (‘natural cultivation’). He added organic fertiliser for many years, but since 2019 he has changed practices to not adding any extra fertiliser at all.
We must say that his tea fields in summer are candidates for the best-smelling tea fields we have ever visited due to all the natural herbs and plants bordering each tea field!
